Oscar and I just returned from three weeks in Chile, my first time visiting our neighbor to the south. We started in Coyhaique and made our way north to Santiago. One night we stayed in Chaitén in northern Patagonia. About five years ago Chaitén Volcano erupted. Lahars followed the eruption, ruining homes and filling them with mud and ash. Some of the owners never returned and their houses sit vacant, slowly decomposing. Other residents, like Ismelda Villegas, returned, despite warnings that another eruption is likely.